I’ve had a few people ask for a tutorial on how I airbrush
my Blood Angel tanks, but right now I have the base fades done on most of them so I
don’t have a starter. Most are already in the basic faded stages to at least
look decent on the table. So, I figure I’d spray up something to go step by
step and since I’m going to be working on the Dusk Wolves project I was talking about I
pulled down a Speeder to mess with. It was the first Blood Angel vehicle I built when I
started them but have only ever fielded it once as I have other better things I
want to play in that army. So why not swap it over to DW colors and start
playing with how I’m going to paint the rest of the vehicles up. Down the road
I will make a step by step BA guild too.
First off,. It was pretty much just sprayed red before. So
before I got to it I started to inflict some damage to the speeder. I want
their vehicles to have a very battered look. I think the dirty white looks
really nice and gives it more flavor since white can look very plain (at least
to me).
Second,. I sprayed the whole speeder white, Comm Art, Op
White to be exact. Well I left the bottom and some of the areas I had already
brushed black. No need to make more work.
Third,. I broke out the Raw Umber also Comm Art and started
to hit the areas I figure will be dirty or at least shadowed more. I usually go
anywhere from 30 to 50 PSI. I make a pass where I want the color to be and then
load up the darker sections fading outward. Don’t worry if you go too far, you
can always fade back. I also use a piece of Plastic Card as a mask (pic at the bottom) when I’m
hitting multi level edges so the darker areas don’t hit the highlighted area.
Fourth,. Normally with Red I go back with Trans Black and
darken the shadows even more but I noticed on the wing sections it was actually
too dark for white. So I gave up on the spray for this.
Fifth,. Now I go back and work on the fades. So for this one
I loaded up one brush with white and the other with umber. If you are using one
brush you’ll just have to swap colors here and there. It’s not a biggy just takes
some more time. Typically I like to finish with whatever would really be the
top layer. In this case the grim and dirty would be on top of the white so I
wanted the umber to be the last faded in. For the BA I usually do the last layer
bright red highlight to show the light hitting the tank. To me it’s the small
things like this that make it stand out. Planning out what you want and
thinking about how something looks on a full sized vehicle helps. Go online and look
up images of tanks or whatever you are working on if possible. It always helps
me.
Sixth,. I brushed the areas I wanted black, with um.. black.
Then I got out the Boltgun and dry brushed them. I’ve been doing this for 20
years now, and it’s how I like my dark metal to look. The boltgun brushed black gives it
the metallic sheen but doesn’t make it look over the top.
Seventh,. Then I go over the areas I felt would have the
highest wear such as wing edges (and moving parts like the flaps), where the
marine would get into the speeder and mostly the battle damage I cut into it
with Boltgun. I usually just run a shaky line over the areas and edges..
Eighth,. Break out the weathering powder, soot. Most of the
powders are a pain but I love the way soot works and applies (I use Secret Weapon Powders). Don’t worry if
you put too much on or in the wrong place. If you brush it and it doesn’t come
off just wet the brush and wash it off.
The above took me about three hours from Battle Damage to
the last pictures. I haven’t done anything other than the fades and grim on the
speeder, no details or the guys inside. So far I’ve only
really used White, Raw Umber, Black, Boltgun Metal and Black Powder. It’s not
too hard, just takes time and you getting your own style and feel for what you
want.Hope this was what some people were looking for and hope it helped 8)
Oh yeah .. it's also Magnetized as pic'd below and I also include a pic of the Plasticard I used as a Mask.
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