Last updated Sept 19, 2014

A list of the tools I use for modeling and painting on a regular basis. I'm not associated with any of the manufactures listed here, they are just the products I like and typically where I buy them from. I have included links so they will be easier to locate.

For brush painting I prefer either Vallejo or GW brand paints. Both have their pluses and minuses in my opinion and I use both pretty regularly.

The amount of time I have to paint can determine what I'm going to use. If I'm only going to have a short amount of table time I'll usually just crack open the GW pot and paint directly from it. I know a lot of people will complain about this but sometimes it works best for me when time is limited. I've been painting mini's now for about 20 years and I usually know how much water I need on my brush so I can thin it by eyeing it up without issue typically. The quality of GWs paint has always been near the top in my opinion even if their containers are not. They are also the most expensive of the paints per once so it can get costly and if they dry up it's a larger waste.

When I know I'm going to have the time I use Vallejo more as I can mix on the pallete instead of on model if needs be and use more additives. The quality of the paint is also top notch and with the dropper bottle you can squeeze out how much you need. The down side is it can dry out on the pallete quicker if squeeze out more then can be used in about 20 minutes. I use Liquitex Acrylic Extender when I know I'm going to be using a lot. I also prefer Vallejo Metallics ALWAYS, other then Tin Bitz which has always been a GW fav.

Airbrush paint I use Iwata Com-Art. Dick Blick gives a volume discount and you can mix and match colors which is very nice. I've tried a ton of different paints in my airbrush and I'd have to say the only paint I am consistently pleased with is the Com-Art. It doesn't have to be thinned and is always consistent. I know what it's going to do everytime, mixes and blends well plus they have Opaque and Trans Parents which makes blending easy. The Trans does seem to have a bit of a sheen when it's dry but a matte varnish will fix that.

I also use Daler Rowney inks, as I've had to replace my older GW inks I've gone with these and they work great.

Super Glue -
BSI Extra Thick Maxi Cure - Now the main glue I use.
Gorilla Glue, I've used a ton of glues (Zap a Gap, Jet, etc..) and this works just as well as any of them. Which is nice as it's usually cheaper and you can also pick it up at a local hardware store such as Home Depot.
Plastic Glue - **** Beware, I don't know if they have fixed it yet but over the last year I've had nothing but terrible luck with this.. it's dries dry brittle and is even crystalline looking *** GW plastic glue gives you a bit more time to move the parts around and when it's dry it's got a great bond, for plastic at least.
Clear Parts Cement (Testors) - This glue works great for attaching canopies and other clear plastic pieces. It doesn't discolor and dries clear, plus has good grip.
MaskingI use Tamiya 10mm (also comes in 6mm and 18mm)3M blue painters tape or Parafilm for masking. Oh and Silly Putty .. that stuff is awesome for odd shapes.

Additives Plus:
Distilled Water - You can use tap water but it is pretty much guaranteed to have contaminants. A gallon is only a few dollars and it usually lasts me about a year. I've been painting a lot more lately so it has been going quick over the last year but it will still be there for a while.
Matte Medium - This is basically paint without pigment and it will do a good many things. The main features that are good for painting miniatures is it increases Transparency and will remove some of the shine if you are using paint with a gloss finish. Transparency will improved the paints blending properties as you apply layers to transition. (here's a link for greater details)
Slo-Dry Blending Medium - Slo-D will give you a longer palette time which is awesome! It will also increase flow and transparency in your paints which is very nice. Helps your paints blend and gives you a nice consistency .. just don't use too much or your paint will take awhile to dry and could be too thin. (here is a link for full details)
Flow Aid - Flow Aid also affects the flow of the paint and is considered a Flow Enhancer. It will help to eliminate brush strokes from the final project. Like Slo Dry don't go overboard or the paints would be too thin and puddle.(here is the link for greater details)
Palette Wetting Spray - Nothing is worse then mixing up a custom color for something small and then having it dry up before you are done. Sure you should record what you are mixing but sometimes it's a work in progress. If you are working on something you don't want to dry out hit the palette with a quick hit of this. (here is a link with more info)

I have a full post with their use in more detail here.

Liquitex - Is one of the largest paint additive companies out there and they make a ton of great products. Here's a link to Blick's Liquitex General site, at the bottom of the page are some good videos.
Liquitex Flow Aid
Liquitex Mediums - An extender and Fixative.
Liquitex Palette Wetting Spray
The Masters Brush Cleaner - This is one of the best products I've found for cleaning and maintaining your brushes. Great for cleaning the brush during use and when finished painting, leave some of the cleaner on the brush and shape it. The brush will keep it's shape and won't spread.
Micro Solutions - There are three of there products I use. Micro Sol and Set for applying decals. They increase bonding of the decal and make it more ply able so there aren't any wrinkles in it. I won't even try to apply a decal without them. I also use their Mask Product when the area is too small for tape.

Typically I use:
Raphael Kolinsky Brushes
Da Vinci Maestro Kolinsky Brushes
Loew Cornell Golden Taklon Brushes
For Dry Brushing I usually buy the cheap $1 to $2 brushes. They can be cheap but not too cheap, when you are dry brushing you apply more force and if the binding is weak Bristles will start to pop loose. Depending on what I need the brush for, sometimes I'll cut it very short to make the brush more rigid.

Table and Setup:
Futura Craft Station - I picked mine up from PlazaArt when it was on sale. I really liked the way it looked and the size was perfect for what I needed.
Alvin Combination Lamp - I love this light, the best I've ever used.. for me that icludes the OT Lights and other LED lights. I had about three of those at one time and it still felt dark. This actually has two bulbs (one Flour and one Incan).

Airbrushes and Assessories:
Badger Velocity Double Action Gravity Feed - My preferred brush, it works well and is easy to clean.
Badger Renegade Rage Double Action Syphon Feed - My heavy Duty brush. I mainly use this for priming and clear coating. It's easier to keep clean and you can keep jars loaded and ready to spray.
Iwata Eclipse HP CS Dual Action Gravity Feed - An awesome brush that will even spray thicker paints like VGC. I use it in tandem with my Velocity.
Paasche Talon Double Action Gravity Feed - I upgraded to this brush which is decent but I find it backs up more then my Velo and usually requires more cleaning.
Iwata Studio Series Power Jet Pro Double Piston Air Compressor - It's not cheap but it's an awesome compressor. I would actually like to get another, sounds crazy but having four lines ready to go would be perfect.
Paasche Compressor - The one I have isn't made anymore but it's pretty close to the D500. It works well and is decently quite. I recommend the regulator and water trap.
Iwata Table Top Cleaning Station - This thing is perfect for cleaning but is also great to just hold your brush. Well worth the buy.
Ultrasonic Cleaner - A lot of people online recommended a Ultrasonic Cleaner so I picked one up to try it out. Works greats on the airbrush and parts as well as your wives jewelery, so bonus points with the wife! My old one broken so I went with this one and I'd have to say I like it a lot better.
Hagerty Jewelery Cleaner - The cleaning solution I picked up for use in the cleaner.

Artograph 1520 Spray Booth - A very solid hobby spray booth.

Modeling Tools:
Robart Paint Shaker - It works very well, I recommend adding a ball bearing into larger bottles or in leaf metallic. Micro Mark regularly has sales, keep an eye out and get a deal.
Cordless Paint Mixer - Make sure it's all the way in, don't ask.
Colour Shapers - I use these when working with putty, I have a set of the soft and firm. I also have the GW tool which I use instead of buying the extra firm set.
Magnets - Magnets are great if you plan on switching parts out on your model for play. ie - bases, backpacks, weapon load out, etc.. I get mine from K&J Magnets but many places sell them.
     D201-N52  ..  1/8 x 1/32  .. is the size I use for Backpacks
     D41-N52 ..  1/4 x 1/16  ..  Vehicle Bases/Flying Bases
     D21  ..  1/8 x 1/16  ..  Deep uses (heavy metal packs or mini to bases
Vasoline - When working with Green Stuff I like to coat my shapers with Vasoline. Water never worked all that well for me. (wow that sounds a bit dirty haha)
Tamiya Hobby Drill - This is a nice little electric drill. Great for Pinning Metal, but be forewarned you have to build the drill. It's a bit involved, took me a little over an hour to build.

If you have any questions feel free to shoot me an e-mail.